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How Ocean Waves Work
Surf forecasts become easier to understand when you separate the ingredients. Swell brings energy, the seabed shapes that energy into breaking waves, and local wind and tide influence the final result.
Swell and period
Swell height describes the size of the energy travelling across the ocean. Period describes the time between waves; a longer period often means more organised and powerful energy when it reaches the coast.
The same forecast can behave differently at two nearby beaches because each one faces a different direction and has a different seabed.
Wind and tide
Offshore or light wind can help a wave keep a cleaner face, while strong onshore wind often makes the surface less organised. Tide changes the depth over sand, rock and reef, affecting where and how a wave breaks.
There is no universal perfect tide. Local knowledge is essential, particularly around rocks and point breaks.
Observe before paddling out
Watch several sets, identify where people enter and leave, and look for currents. If the conditions exceed your ability, choosing another spot is good judgement, not a missed opportunity.
